Bent Copper

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Steampunk button-hole for a friend

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Copper orchid button-hole

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Holly sprig with coral berries

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Copper Chrysanthemum tiara modelled by Emily and reproduced with kind permission from the photographer.

Copper is a wonderful metal to work with and its cheapness relative to silver means allows me to experiment more and try bigger projects with it.
Last year I started making fold-formed orchids. these were followed by some little Chrysanthemums whose layers of petals I hammered out on my doming block.
The Chrysanthemums I made into a headband, kindly modelled by a friend here.
This Christmas I have followed those up with a holly button-hole complete with coral berries.
The colour of the metal is the result of the folding and annealing process and won’t last unless I seal it under a coat of laquer.
I have a steampunk friend who insists that everything he makes is polished to a mirror shine. I admire the dedication but personally I like the way metals oxidise and age.
I have plans to choose a flower or plant for every season. For spring I am planning a hair ornament with hawthorn. I think I would try to oxidise the copper leaves to green and then combine them with little silver flowers and “buds” of white button pearls.
I would love one day to do a complete bridal set, copper flowers, a tiara and button holes for the bridegroom’s party.
In a world where florists charge up to £50 for a button-hole that won’t last the day, this must be possible! Continue reading

Grown up steampunk jewellery

Steampunk is in danger of becoming a cliché.

Of course there are wonderful makers out there doing amazingly original things but for the majority the steampunk aesthetic can be summed up thus: It is steampunk because it has a cog on it; it has a cog on it because it is steampunk. Cog-ito ergo steampunk.

This often frustrates me but I do sometimes succumb to the lure of a sweet little cog and I do love old watch movements…and so I too am guilty of making jewellery with cogs in.

This was my first such piece; a lovely deep cut rock crystal whose lower arc happened to be the perfect match for the edge of a watch movement I had in my collection.

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Deep, rose cut quartz cabochon set in silver with steel and brass watch parts.

I do hope that you will see these as grown-up steampunk jewellery. They are not made of brass-coloured, pre-made elements wired together, but of silver. The cogs are carefully chosen and set almost discretely behind gemstone cabochons. In their turn the gemstones are chosen for their cut and even for their characterful flaws.

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Steampunk Industrial ring in hammered and oxidised silver, set with a rose cut quartz and watch parts.

The ring above  is set with part of a watch movement and oxidised. The oxidisation was done with liver of sulphur which makes up for its nasty smell at the time of using by turning silver first ochre and then russet before going an oily bluey greenish colour. The colours are subtle and as this ring is worn they will change, weather and develop character. The rose cut stone brings out the intricacy of the watch movement even as the facets split its image, making it hard to pin down.

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Finally these are part of a collection of tie or lapel pins simply set with a labradorite, a cog and amethyst and, finaly, a star sapphire. I also have pins set with glass taxidermy eyes but they are surprisingly expensive.

Thank you to my friend Mark  Todd for taking the first and last of these pictures for me.